GATEWAY TO THE WEST

By J. M. Moseley

 

Resources - Natural Wealth

 

Nature has left nothing undone to make Lee Co. one of the most highly endowed sections of the State of Virginia with natural resources. Rich stores of coal, timber, iron ore, fertile soil, water power and other resources abound. Coal has been by far the most paying resource during the first half of the century. The soil for crops and grazing has come a close second, and now even surpasses the mines in wealth. The timber supply was vast, varied and valuable, but has been prodigally exhausted. The mountain land is not suited to agriculture, except grazing, due to much steepness and roughness, but its value and rating as agricultural region lies in its natural fertility. In this quality it far surpasses many level sections.

 

Coal

 

There are 77.8 square miles of coal fields in Lee Co. - bituminous, splint and cannel coal, in workable seams above water level. There are at least thirty-two workable seams - low, middle and upper measures - ranging from three to seven feet in thickness. There is an average ash content of perhaps 4%. Most of the operations were drift mining, though there are now a few strip operations.

The first coal mines ever worked in the United States were in the Richmond basin near Richmond, VA. There lies 190 square miles of coal beds, on both sides of the James River. Coal was mined there as early as 1750. This was 19 years before mines were opened in Pennsylvania. Coal was taken from the Richmond Basin and transported as far north as New York and Philadelphia. Through the development of the coal fields of Southwest Virginia the state has maintained its high rank among the coal producing states, even up to the seventh, at the present time (1950).

In the Lee Co. Coal Fields, the Jew Mines at Penn-Lee were the first to be opened up in about the year 1889, for local wagon trade. The coal was run out on buckets. Then when the railroad came to Pennington it was hauled there in wagons for rail shipment. Dan Woodward and Charles Pennington did the first hauling there in 1900. The first opening was made by some Jews, and this gave it the name of the Jew mines.

All of the mountain section of the northeastern portion of Lee Co., drained by the North Fork of Powells River and its tributaries, constitutes the coal bearing territory. This water shed is composed of four drainage basins: Stone Creek six square miles, Ely Creek three square miles, Straight Creek seventeen square miles and North Fork 51.8 square miles, making a total of 77.8 square miles.

The highest point of land in this coal bearing section, and in the whole county is Potato Hill, two miles north of Keokee. It rises 3,732 feet above sea level. The lowest point in the coal fields is Pennington Gap where the North Fork breaks through Stone Mountain at Nigger Head Rock. This has an elevation of 1,380 feet.

The chief tributaries of the North Fork are the following creeks: Stone, Pucketts, Straight, Reeds, Jones, Cox, Bundy and Craborchard. The territory is bounded on the southeast side by Stone Mountain and on the Northwest by the Virginia-Kentucky line along the crest of Little Black Mountain.

 Prospecting for coal was begun as early as 1885, for residential use and for blacksmithing. The first coal mined for local sale was in 1889.

In 1903, Charles Bondurant began an operation just west of St. Charles depot, in what is called No. 2 bed. The first car of coal ever shipped from the county was sent from there over the L & N via Pennington. Mr. Bondurant laid a track from St. Charles to connect with the L & N branch before the coming of the Southern. This was at the tunnel near the Pocket Power House.

No. 5 coal was mined at Darbyville two and one-half miles north of St. Charles in 1905. By 1907 the coal production was 198,913 tons. In 1923 the output was 1,024,668 tons. In 1946, only 599,001 tons were produced. The estimated amount of coal that could be obtained from this field was 1,950,000,000 tons, which would be enough coal to continue production for 1,300 years.

By 1910 there were several companies in the field. Bondurant Coal and Coke Company, Black Mountain Coal Company, Black Mountain Mining Company, Dominion Coal Company, Darby Coal and Coke Company, Virginia Lee County, Pennington Coal Company, and Keokee Consolidated Coal Company.

In 1925 was installed Blackwood Coal and Coke Company, equipt for turning out 2,500 tons per day, on Bundy Creek. The same year Stonega Coal and Coke Company, began operation at Keokee, then the largest operation in the county. Other companies beginning operations were Benedict Coal Corporation, Virginia Iron, Coal &

Company.

 

Geology of the Coal Fields

 

The coal bearing section of the county, from Stone Mountain northward, is in the Pennsylvania sandstone formation. This formation is 3,000 feet thick, alternating sandstone and shale with coal measures. The rocks of the coal bearing area are carboniferous. The fossils are of plants and not animals.

“Niggerhead” rock is massive gray sandstone which forms cliffs and hogbacks along the top of Stone Mountain. It is above the Pennington formation along the southern slope of the Mountain.

The Lee formation of rocks begins along the north side of Stone Mountain. It is sandstone conglomerate with white quartz pebbles and thin layers of impure and unworkable coal. The Lee formation is 1,650 feet thick at the Gap north of Pennington.

Next above the Lee formation is the Norton formation, beginning on the north side of Stone Mountain. It is 1,400 feet thick, of sandstone, shale and coal. The coal is of little value.

The most geological formation is Gladeville sandstone, 100 feet thick, conglomerate with white quartz pebbles. There begins the real coal bearing formation - the Wise formation. It contains shale and sandstone and about 20 workable coal measures. This is the formation in which we are most interested.

The Harlan formation is the highest, and occupies about 200 feet, or less in places along the crest of Little Black Mountain. It is coarse white sandstone with thin beds of shale and coal.

Before entering upon a brief study of the coal measures, it is well to state that far back in the geological shaping of these mountains, there occurred a great fault or break in the earth’s crust along the line of the North Fork River and Stone Creek. This break caused the placement of the watershed and greatly influenced the lower coal measures.

Probably the lowest coal measure in this region is one in the upper Pennington formation. This measure has been found near St. Paul in Russell Co., and extends all the way through Wise and Lee counties and into Tennessee. It has been found on Stone Mountain north of Olinger, and also north of Dryden. It has been opened two miles west of Nigger Head Rock, 200 feet below the top of Stone Mountain. It has been opened near Ewing,  100 feet below the top of the Mountain, and there it revealed six feet in thickness. The coal is hard and of good quality.

The next geological formation is named for Lee Co. The Lee formation near Pennington Gap is 1,650 feet thick. It contains sandstone, conglomerate, shale and coal beds. It extends from the top of Stone Mountain along its northern slope. Its last 100 feet is very resistant sandstone known as “Bee Rock.” It has been lifted to almost vertical position by a mighty upheaval, and this gives Stone Mountain a rugged turn on the northern slope. Six coal beds have been found in the Lee formation, but they are thin and badly crushed, and are valueless.

The Norton formation is composed of sandstone, shale and coal. It is 1,400 feet thick in the eastern part of the County. West of Devale most of this formation has been submerged by the North Fork fault. The coal is dipped to nearly vertical position and is of little value, being badly crushed.

At the top of the Norton formation is the Gladeville sandstone, 100 feet thick. It is an important geological marker. Above it is found most of the valuable coal measures. There are a number of beds in the lower part of the Wise formation just above the Gladeville sandstone. The Dorchester bed is found at Purcell, and eastward into Wise Co. At Purcell it is two to four feet thick. But there are dips, pinches and swells due to the North Fork fault. Then there is the Lyons or Thompson bed averaging three feet. It has a ten degree dip to the northwest. Seventy feet higher is the Blair or Bently coal measure. This coal is two and one-half to five feet thick between Purcell and Crest.

Next is Clintwood or North Fork coal. It lies along near the Southern Railroad, and runs three and one-half to nine feet. It is good in the eastern part of the county, but drops below water level west of Sandlick Branch.

Between Clintwood coal and Number one there are other measures noticeable at Crest, Delvale and Jonse Creek, one showing five or six feet in places, and another three to four. Thus we see that there is a goodly number of coal measures before reaching Number One.

Now we come to the upper and main portion of the Wise formation which contains many of the leading measures. There are at least twenty in all in the bounds of the Wise formation, but only twelve of them coming within worthwhile working conditions.

No. 1, The Pocket or Imboden Coal; No. 2, Lower St. Charles; No. 2A, Upper St. Charles; No. 3, Harlan Coal, called Wilson Coal at Keokee; No. 4, Kirk; No. 5, Taggart, called McConnell at Keokee; No. 6, Low Splint; No. 7, Phillips; No. 8 Gin Creek; No. 9, Wax; No. 10, Pardee; No. 11, Morris and No. 12, High Splint.

No. 1 is first noticed at Maness where it has been mined extensively. It is 45 inches thick. This measure is 400 feet above the Clintwood bed in North Fork basin. At Maness and Newtown it has pinches and swells running from two and one-half feet. At Sigma, Johnson Mill, and on Reeds and Jones Creeks, and at Penn-Lee it runs about three and one-half feet. This bed is estimated to contain 32,845 acres, with originally 192,143,250 tons.

Other interesting beds lay between No. 1 and No. 2, including Kelly and Pinhook measures, and others, each running from three to six and one-half feet, along the line of Mohawk and Newtown.

No. 2 and No. 2A run fifty feet apart. Both are thin, with inferior coal high in ash content. They are found at St. Charles and extend to Cox Creek, running about 30 to 38 inches thick. They are estimated to contain 11,520,000 tons. The acreage is not known. It was from No. 2 near St. Charles depot that the first load of coal was shipped in 1903.

No. 2 is “Jackrock” coal and is high in sulfur content. It runs an average of four feet. At Keokee this measure is worked extensively, running four and one-half feet. It is found four and one-half to five feet thick at Pucketts Creek and on Big Branch. At Virginia Lee it runs 38 inches. This measure extends all the way across the Pocket and in the North Fork basin. No. 3 is estimated to contain 21,760 acres, with originally 137,125,800 tons.

Taggart marker lies 135 feet below the regular No. 5 measure. On Jones Creek, Reeds Creek and Meadow Fork it attains three feet in thickness. On Bundy Creek the marker rises to within twenty feet of No. 5.

No. 5 is doubtless the best measure of all. It has a massive sandstone top and bottom each 100 feet in thickness. It averages around 42 inches. It is found in all drainage basins, and occupies 24,000 acres, containing 131,500,000 tons. It is free of partings in most places, an excellent soft coal of high test. At Keokee No. 5 runs four to five feet in thickness.

No. 6, Low Splint, extends eastward from Straight creek basin into North Fork basin and is found on Bundy Creek, Cox Creek and Reeds Creek, and has been mined at Keokee. It ranges from four to eight feet. This measure is 250 to 400 feet above No. 5, and is found in all the same leading operations. It is a good bed but often has shale partings that impair its value. It occupies 5,871 acres, with 47,555,100 tons.

No. 7, Phillips measure, is one of the thickest, averaging above five feet, though it often has a clay or shale parting a few inches thick in the lower half. It occupies 3,460 acres, with 28,026,000 tons.

No. 8, Gin Creek, lies 200 feet above No. 7. It is about four feet thick, but has not proved very profitable.

No. 9, Wax measure, is 100 feet above No. 8 and is similar to it and runs about five feet, but has partings and impurities. Numbers eight and nine together are estimated to have 14,220,000 tons.

No. 10, Pardee, is high on Little Black Mountain. It is six to seven and one-half feet thick but has partings of shale or clay in both upper and lower half. It has been worked at Bendict and on Baily Trace. It doubtless extends into the North Fork basin. It has about 1,655 acres with 22,245,500 tons.

No. 11, Morris, shows three to five feet in thickness up near the summit of Little Black Mountain. It is good blocky coal, free from partings. It has about 385 acres with 2,052,000 tons.

No. 12, High Splint, is four to five feet, good hard coal, but high and limited, having now been mostly worked out. It is 70 feet above No. 11. There was originally about 200 acres, with perhaps 1,636,200 tons. It is the highest measure, right at the crest of Little Black Mountain.

Straight Creek basin has several extensive operations: Leona Mines, Monarch, Maness, Penn-Lee, St. Charles, Benedict, Bonny Blue, Darbyville and Dominion.

North Fork basin has Purcell, Bundy, Newtown, Mohawk and Keokee.

 

Iron

 

The first iron obtained in America was mined by the Jamestown colonists near Jamestown in 1607. Sixteen tons was taken to England and smelted. The first furnace outside of New England and New Jersey was Rappahannock furnace, built by Gov. Spottswood in 1714.

During 1825 to 1861 there were two forges in operation in Lee Co. besides the Cumberland Gap forge at the Tennessee line. These were Milam Forge at Martins Creek, and Bales Forge four miles southeast of Rose Hill. The Pennington Forge was operated after the Civil War. One of the early forges in Lee Co. was erected and operated by Joseph Koger three miles southwest of Dryden at the Koger Mill later known as the Lytton Mill.

There were several mines opened up in the Poor Valley section along the northern part of the county. Pennington Mine near Pennington Gap was operated in a small way for use by the Pennington Forge. Analyzed in 1887, the composition indicated was as follows: Metallic iron - 50.50%; Silica - 18.75% and Phosphorus - .16%.

Lavine Mine was located midway between Pennington Gap and Ben Hur. It was operated by Kelly and Irvin. A narrow-gauge railroad brought the ore to the L & N. Its analysis was: Metallic iron - 43.20%; Silica - 22.31%; Phosphorus - .34% and Lime - .56%.

Ben Hur mines on the north side of Poor Valley Ridge was operated by Virginia Iron, Coal and Coke Company. Its analysis was: Metallic iron - 34.01%; Silica - 34.50%; Phosphorus - .27% and Manganese - .16%.

Truro Mine west of Ben Hur, on the north side of Poor Valley Ridge was operated by Virginia Iron, Coal and Coke Company. The analysis was:  Metallic iron - 36.00%; Silica - 33.37%; Phosphorus - .23% and Manganese - .16%.

Noe’s Siding Mine near Ocoonita north of Poor Valley Ridge was operated by Kelly and Irvin. The composition of the ore indicated: Metallic iron - 42.23%; Silica - 27.60%; Phosphorus - .19% and Lime - .10%.

Grabeel Mine located near Hagan was operated by B. C. Grabeel in a small way, the ore being hauled to the railroad in wagons. No analysis of this ore has been found recorded.

Boone’s Path Mine two miles southwest of Hagan was operated by Boone’s Path Iron Company. The analysis of the ore indicated: Metallic iron - 40.91%; Silica - 16.70%; Phosphorus - .45%; Lime - 5.18% and Magnesia - .93%.

Ewing Mine near Ewing was operated by Union Iron Company. The ore was hauled to the tipple over a narrow-gauge railroad a distance of two and one-half miles. The analysis was: Metallic iron - 34.09%; Silica - 6.58%; Phosphorus - .58%; Lime - 7.72% and Magnesia - 3.95%

 

Forges

 

There are considerable iron deposits in Lee Co., both of red fossil ore and brown ore. The iron is found chiefly in Poor Valley and in Wallens Ridge. The ore in Poor Valley was mined most heavily in time past between Pennington Gap and Ocoonita. These mines were operated over a period of about fifty years. Ore was taken from Poor Valley Ridge near Cumberland Gap extensively and for a shorter period of time.

Three forges have been active in the vicinity. One was at Cumberland Gap on the Tennessee line, and was capable of turning out six tons of pig metal daily. This was built and operated before the Civil War. It was rebuilt and operated in 1865. This furnace used the red fossil ore from Poor Valley Ridge, and some brown ore also. This ore yielded 60% metal.

 

Bales Forge

 

Bales Forge operated for many years on Martins Creek, using the brown ore which was near the furnace. This forge was operated mostly during the winter months. It turned out some three hundred pounds of metal per day. They also used some of the red ore from Poor Valley Ridge not far away.

 

Koger Forge

 

One of the earliest forges to be operated in Lee Co. was built by Joseph Koger. This force and also a grain mill were built and operated on Powells River east of Pennington Gap and Woodway. The mill was operated for several years, and later became known as the Lytton Mill.

 

Pennington Forge

 

Pennington Forge began to be operated in 1865, under the management of John Pennington. It continued for perhaps eighteen or twenty years. It turned out bar iron from the fossil red ore found in Poor Valley Ridge. This forge stood on the North Fork River just north of the base of Nigger Head Rock. It turned out excellent iron, a bar of which could be bent flat double while cold without showing a break or flaw. John Pennington was the grandfather of Judge E. W. Pennington, and the son of Eward who entered the land there in 1790.

 

Other Minerals

 

The larger portion of the county and of Powells Valley is in the limestone section. Blackwater, Powells Mountain, Wallens Valley, Wallens Ridge and Powells Valley are all underlain by heavy lime formation. The analysis of this limestone averages about as follows: Calcium Carbonate - 95.50%; Iron oxide and alumina - 1.12%; Magnesium carbonate - .68% and Insoluble matter - 2.70%

This lime deposit is mostly on what the geologists call Hudson River Strata or Ordovecian. It is suitable for any purpose - fluxing in furnaces, burning or crushing for lime, road making, or for building stones. Below this series is found an excellent grade, in variegated colors and pictured markings of what has the appearance of excellent building marble. This last has a good outcropping west of Schafers Ford near Powells River south of Pennington Gap. Ordovecian limestone 275 feet thick underlies Powells Valley and Wallens Valley. There are many caverns in this limestone area. It is topped by deep rich soil.

In the county there are a few beds of barytes, and some kaolin or fire clay in connection with coal beds. It is certain that below the iron strata there are deposits of zinc. Traces of gold, silver and lead have been found, but not in workable quantities. Salt beds are known to exist deep under Blackwater Valley, but very little has been done to develop any wells for bringing up the brine. One well 70 feet deep was once dug by Blackwater Creek west of Robinett’s Store. Salt was evaporated in four large iron kettles which are yet in existence in the county.

There are sulfur springs and wells at different points in the county showing that there are sulfur deposits deep in the earth.

Oil of high test has been tapped in the western half of the County. Several wells seem at first to be paying strikes, though the outpost has not been put to the final test.

There are known deposits of Manganese that have not as yet been worked, which show a high analysis.

There have been found deposits of Pitchblend, Uranite and Carnitite, all of which contain Uranium, radium and potassium, but not as yet known to be in paying quantities.

There are excellent sand deposits, and building stones of sand, lime and marble.

 

Guns of the Civil War

At the beginning of the Civil War, there was almost total unpreparedness in both North and South. Even the old flintlock gun had to be called into use in large numbers. The percussion firing had replaced the flintlock as far back as 1842, yet sufficient guns of any kind were hard to obtain.

Pistols and revolvers were in great demand. The pistol had been in use for three hundred years, yet an adequate supply for a war was out of the question. There were a few converted percussion pistols and a good many flintlocks. The most popular revolver was the Colt .44 caliber six shot. Next the Remington of the same caliber, and the Smith and Wesson six shot .32 caliber using rimfire metallic cartridges.

Most of the powder for the mountain section was made a Nashville, TN, and at Pendleton & Walhalla, South Carolina. The most of the niter was obtained from saltpeter caves in East Tennessee and Georgia, and smaller quantities from Virginia and Kentucky.

Much of the lead was obtained from the Virginia Lead Mines at Wytheville, VA. The smelting was done extensively at Petersburg. Every available bullet or piece of lead was picked up from the battlefields. It was estimated that half the supply of lead used was thus retrieved and reused, perhaps as much as five million pounds.

The Enfield rifle was perhaps the most popular when it could be obtained. The genuine Enfield was made in Enfield, England, though the pattern was brought to America and the guns manufactured very similar in New England.

The Austrian rifle .54 caliber was not considered equal to the Enfield. It was a smaller caliber, rougher made and lighter. The U. S. Mississippi rifle model 1841 was also a .54 caliber which was later rebored to .58. These were the more commonly used guns of the Northern and Southern armies.

But due to the scarcity of firearms, the country rifle or common hog rifle had to be often brought into use. They were usually .40 caliber, but were frequently rebored to .58, and the barrel cut down to 33 inches. They were left smooth-bored. The change ruined many of them.

Many flintlock guns were altered to use percussion caps. Muzzle loaders were frequently altered to breech loading. The Confederate-Hall rifle was a breech loader which was converted to muzzle loading.

In 1852 an order was issued to allow any soldier an extra dollar on his wages if he could bring with him his own guns.

 

Artillery

 

At the beginning of the War there were a very few pieces of serviceable field artillery in the South, mostly a few old iron guns from the time of the War of 1812. The North was not much better fixed. There were a few three-inch guns with three rifles after the Parrott pattern. Virginia had a few old four-pounder guns which were rearmed and rifled with three grooves. There were a few six-pounders and twelve-pounders, and a less number of larger guns.

The most prominent artillery pieces were the iron Napoleon field guns. These were smooth-bore, used mostly with cannister and grape shot, and hauled by four horses. They weighed 1,250 pounds.

The Tredegar Works at Richmond cast a few 12-inch Rodman guns. These were smooth-bore, muzzle loading cast iron guns, cast around a hollow water-cooled core to give more temper and strength to the internal layers. The Rodman gun was used extensively in the Civil War.

The best of all guns of the time were the Parrott make. The Parrott invention was the use of rifles in cannon. Robert P. Parrott manufactured guns for the Government at the West Point Foundry, Cole Springs, New York. They were 10 to 300 pounders. They were the most accurate and dependable gun.

The Blakely cannon from England were a special make at the time. Two Blakely guns of the Parrott type were landed at Charleston, SC, that shot solid charges weighing 450 pounds and requiring 50 pounds of powder to the charge. One cracked on the first trial shot. The long gun usually referred to as “Long Tom” were doubtless of this same make.

The Blakely gun was breech loading, and the three special ones sent over from England were 30-pounders, about 105 m.m. Gen. McCown described them as being 4 ½ inch Parrott guns, but the actual shell measurements indicate 4.1 inches.

Parrott 10-pounders were 3 inches in diameter; 20-pounders measured 3.67 inches. These sizes were muzzle loaders and used both shot and shell.

Col. Samuel P. Carter, in his report of March 24, 1862, said the Confederates at Cumberland Gap had fired on his forces with 24-pounders solid shot, and with 6-pound solids, also with 8 and 12 pound shells. He did not mention 30-pounders. But it seems that when Morgan evacuated the Gap in October, 1862, he left six field pieces which had been in turn obtained from the Confederates after Gen. J. E. Rain’s evacuation, two of which were described as 4 ½ inch 30-pounders, of the Parrott model.

Morgan reported that when the Confederates had evacuated, they had spiked most of the guns and dropped several over the cliffs. Evidently those spiked were muzzle loaders. The breech loaders could not be spiked and were rendered useless by sliding them over the cliffs.

This brings us to the conclusion, after considering all available information, that it is very likely one of the two Parrott breech loading guns was the Lookout Mountain gun transferred to the mountain top south of the Saddle and the State Marker. This was in all probability the gun which was floated to Knoxville and junked. The Long Tom of Pinnacle fame remains to date something of a mystery as to its final disposition after the close of the War.

 

Railroads

 

There are natural outlets from the coal fields of Lee Co. through Pennington Gap and Big Stone Gap and the adjacent narrow valleys, which have been of immense value to the coal industry. Natural gaps or passes have been of untold advantages to the county, not only in making it the great Gateway between the East and the West, but also for railway construction, road building, and the development of coal, timber, farming and other industries.

The Cumberland Valley Division of the L  & N Railway traverses the full length of the county from the west to the east, a distance of about forty-nine miles. This main line was completed in 1892. This road has a branch line from Pennington northward which intersects the Southern Railroad on the North Fork River, a length of three miles, completed in 1903, and a branch at Hagan northward, tunneling Cumberland Mountain to reach Chevrolet, KY, one mile of which is in Lee Co. This branch was completed in 1930. The L & N also has about 6 1/4 miles of siding in Lee Co.

The Southern Railroad passes through the eastern end of the county as Jasper, entering Wise Co., and then reentering Lee west of Appalachia, terminating at St. Charles, with a trunk line of 22 1/4 miles, completed in 1906. It has 19.37 miles of branches and siding in the coal fields.

The total mileage of the L & N in the county is 55.26, and of the Southern, 41.62, making a total of 96.88 miles of railroad in Lee Co., being about twice the length of the county itself.

The Black Mountain Road was first built from St. Charles to intersect the L & N on the North Fork in 1903. Later the Virginia and Southwestern, then the Southern, 1906. This gave direct rail connection with the N & W and the southeast to the Atlantic seaboard at Charleston, SC.

 

Heiskell Cave

 

Thirteen miles east of Cumberland Gap, one mile west of Ewing, and one mile south of Highway N 687, is found the Heiskell Cave, perhaps the largest in Lee Co. This cave enters the earth in an obscure grove of cedars among mossy boulders and by a small door in a low lying ledge. It enters at once into a spacious antiroom from which a narrow passway on the left descends to lower depths and more spacious rooms. The second room is some 50 feet wide, 50 feet high and 100 feet in length.

Up a winding corridor to the right hangs a mighty block of limestone suspended on rugged supports, head high and measuring 10 feet by 10 feet by 60 feet in length. It looks as if it had dropped from the high ceiling in recent times, perhaps during the night of August 31, 1886, when the Charleston earthquake, centered 400 miles away, violently shook these mountains, dislodging tons of rock in the caves of this section.

This cave, like most limestone caves, extends along the general direction of the mountain folds. It leads from the entrance in a northeastwardly direction under the town of Ewing and on beneath Cumberland Mountain. It rises, falls, veers to right and left, and unfolds many wonders. The gray and mottled ceiling many feet overhead gives the impression of being out of doors under the open sky on a dark cloudy night. No one has ever yet found any end or limit to the wonders of the mighty sprawling labyrinth of this great cavern.

 

A Railroad Hero

 

On the Southern Railroad, July 10, 1950, two miles east of St. Charles, VA, a train as coming down the grade. Suddenly the engineer saw a little child playing on the track. Little James Woodward, 16 months of age, was leaning directly over the rail and smiling happily, oblivious of the fearful nearness of death.

The mother saw the child, but was too far away to rescue him. She made a mad rush toward the track, but could only throw herself in front of the train and perish with her baby. The air brakes were applied, but it was impossible to stop the train in time to head off the tragedy.

James Dowell, a colored brakeman was in the cab. He leaped from the train and made a daring dash, outrunning the engine. He reached the child in the very nick of time, shoved the mother from the track and snatched the baby away just as the great engine rumbled by. The train moved six car lengths past the spot before coming to a stop. James Dowell had saved the child and its mother by a desperate, swift and well directed move.

The 63 year old colored brakeman was awarded the highly deserved Railroad Medal of Honor.

 

Powells River

 

Powells River drains most of Lee Co. All the smaller streams are tributary to Powells River except Blackwater Creek, which flows into Clinch River. Powells River was once navigable for batteaux. Large quantities of wheat and corn were once shipped to Chattanooga this way, and logs by raft, in winter and spring.

Powells River and its tributaries furnish ample water power for mills, sawmills, and other machinery. There were once several mills on the various streams, but there are very few water wheels in the county at present.

Powells River rises in Wise Co. and flows through Lee most of its entire length. A geological study seems to indicate that in the eastern part of the county the river once changed its course. It once doubtless flowed down the main valley south of Stockers Knob. Later it changed to the north side from just east of Olinger. Mud Creek backing along its former bed. From Turkey Cove, Camp Creek and Yokum Creek indicate the drainage once occupied by the River.

In Powells River and some of its tributaries there are several species of game fish such as trout, bass, bream, sunfish, crappie, pike and cat. These were once abundant until the river was polluted in Wise Co. by waste matter from the Extract Plant there. Since this pollution has ceased, the fish are slowly replinishing the waters, assisted by State restocking measures, and a better warden service to protect the fish, as well as the cooperation of an active Isaac Walton league.

 

Agriculture

 

To establish a claim to land in the forest, the pioneer had only to decide upon a place that suited him, erect any kind of a cabin, and clear a little land and plant some corn. The cultivation was simple. The axe and hoe were about all the farming tools actually needed. Trees were belted or girdled for deadening, the underbrush removed, and the area burned over, and the rich, mellow, virgin soil was ready. The corn was planted in hills dug with a hoe. Subsequent cultivation was very little. Softening up the soil around the hills of corn, and keeping down the weeds and sprouts which were not very prolific at first on new land.

The hoe was a simple contrivance, just a piece of steel worked to proper shape with a hole punched and worked into an “eye” for the handle. Any blacksmith could shape a hoe in a few minutes. Any pioneer could make a handle, usually by simply cutting a straight, smooth pole the right size and length, and wedging it in the eye of the hoe.

A rake for clearing up leaves and brush could also be made, by most any one, all of wood. The pioneer could shape his own axe handles from the white sap wood of hickory. The required load of supplies for the pioneer to carry to his new location was reduced to a minimum, and the rest of the needs were supplied by the skill and industry of the home maker.

Agriculture of pioneer days was a simple affair. Little else was raised in the way of grain except corn. When wheat came to be sowed, the harvesting was done with a hand reaphook. The grain was beaten out with a flail, and winnowed or fanned out by hand. Corn and potatoes were the chief crops. When a plow was needed, it was made of wood, with a shop-made point commonly called a “bull tongue” plow, a type of which is still in use. These equipments and the vitally necessary flintlock rifle, were the chief properties of pioneer life.

The rifle had a firing pin in which priming powder was ignited by a spark from a common flint, so set as to be struck by a steel point of the hammer. Of course the powder had to be always properly primed and dry.

A blacksmith shop in each community was a vital necessity. Horseshoe nails and shoes were made, plows and hoes made and sharpened, and even guns were made, by some local blacksmiths. The pioneers had to be self-sustaining, and could depend on very few things being brought from the older settlements.

In most parts of Powells Valley grew the sugar maple. In early spring the trees were tapped, that is notched and blazed, and the sweet sap which flowed from the tree was caught in wooden troughs. This sugar water was boiled in large kettles, one item which had to be brought from afar on packhorses or wagons. The sugar water was first boiled down to a delicious syrup, and then it would form into a mass of fine tree sugar in the center.

When suitable land was cleared and developed, wheat began to be raised in increasing quantities. The hand cradle came into use after 1794. This was a long scythe blade with several curved wooden fingers arranged in a frame to catch the wheat straw as it was cut. The wheat gathered by each stroke was grasped in the left hand and thrown on the ground, or the wheat emptied in the swath by the return of the cradle without grasping it in the hand. A man followed the cradler, binding the wheat into bundles. The combine invented in 1789 was not suited to mountain farming.

It was considered a good accomplishment to learn to be a good cradler. One could cut two acres a day, where only one-half an acre could be cut by the hand sickle. A good binder was also in large demand. Oats were handled in the same way. The old time sickle or reaphook dropped out of use soon after the cradle came in. It is now antique. The cradle is also seldom seen. Wheat harvesting was the first farm work to command wages as high as one dollar per day in Lee Co.

The use of the cradle diminished when the binder came. Less wheat was sowed and only land that permitted the use of the reaper, the steeper land being turned to bluegrass and cattle grazing or to corn. The wheat raised in the county does not usually go to the general market. It is used by the local mills. Once a surplus of wheat was some times shipped by flatboat down the river to market. A flat boat or batteau would be loaded at the river and taken down on a tide the same as a raft of logs would be floated to market. The wheat and the boat would be sold. The usual market destination of boats and grain as well as rafts of logs was Chattanooga.

When clover and other hay crops were sown in the early days, the grass for hay was mowed with a scythe. As the cradle was supplanted by the reaper, so the mowing machine replaced the mowing blade for cutting hay.

 

Tobacco

 

About the year 1925 a new crop was introduced on a commercial scale in Lee Co. Burley tobacco began to be grown for the market, and soon developed into one of the leading money crops. The culture of Burley tobacco has grown to considerable proportions.

This industry was introduced by Mr. M. V. Koger, county agent of Lee from 1925 to 1933. Mr. R. S. Banner was one of the earliest to begin growing tobacco for the market in the county. He was aided and instructed by Mr. Koger. In 1925 only four acres was cultivated in Lee Co. for sale.

In 1947-49 the annual allotment was 3,000 acres each year, with an average yield of 1,600 pounds per acre. Some yields ran as high as 3,230 pounds per acre. In 1949 ample warehouses were erected to handle vast crops. Lee Farmers Warehouse at Pennington opened for the first time November 14, 1949. During November and December and seven days in January, 25 days, 3,076,886 pounds of tobacco sold for $1,407,952.51, an average of 45 cents per pound.