I have read a little about peoples opinions of Hi-Point 9mm composite pistols. Some like them, some don't, and some don't know. I bought two of them and so far I like them. What I am addressing in this web page is how I went about cleaning my pistol. There are some things you can do and some things you can't do when cleaing a hi-point pistol. I have some pictures that might make it easier for anyone who wants to make sure their weapon is as well maintained as posible.
As a diclaimer I am not a gunsmith nor do I work for or get paid by Hi-Point. The advice I am giving is on a try it at your own risk level. I am very mechanically inclined with over 20 years of experience in taking apart and successfully reassembling a host of mechanical things.
To start out with I urge anyone who has purchased a Hi-Point weapon to find a suitable legal place to practice with it. I live in a large metro area so I have gone to a local firing range. Until you put at least a 100 rounds through your pistol you will probably not need to worry about cleaning it. While transporting my pistol to and from the firing range I try to comply with Ohio's gun control laws. My weapon is unloaded and trigger locked with a combination lock, a safty plug is in the breech, and the case is also locked with a combination lock.
Here is a picture of my pistol case.
Here is a picture of my pistol showing the trigger lock and combination lock.
Here is a picture of my pistol showing the tab of the breech plug.
Here is a picture of my pistol showing the magazine removed. Note the wooden mallet that I use to help remove the slide retaining pin.
Here is a picture of my pistol showing the slide removed.
Removal of the slide is briefly described in the literature that comes with the pistol. I used a small wooden block to help support the body of the pistol. I have also found that the recommended 1/8 inch punch is a little to big to easily drive the slide retainer pin out. I use the next smaller size which is a 3/32 inch punch. When I pull the slide back to engage the safty to lock the pistol open I noted that the notch in the slide did not completly clear the slide retainer pin hole. In order to keep the slide back just a bit more I put the tag end of the breech safty plug between the safty lever and the notch in the slide. This allows just enough more rearward positioning of the slide so the slide retainer pin hole is not partially blocked by the slide. This little tip keeps you from fighting with lining the punch up and allows the pin to be easily tapped out of the body of the pistol. Once the slide retainer pin is removed you can raise the rear of the slide which pulls the slide retainer out of the frame of the pistol. Once the slide retainer is clear of the pistol frame the slide can be moved forward.
Two things to watch out for. Their is a large spring that normally pulls the slide forward. This is the recoil spring which is located beneath the pistol barrel between the barrel and the forward part of the frame. This spring may or may not fall out depending on how you are holding the pistol when the slide is brought forward. The only secret is to know that the end of the spring with the plastic recoil spring guide rod in it goes towards the front.
The second thing to watch out for is the firing pin spring, firing pin spring cup/collar, firing pin, and the slide retainer. These all fit in a machined hole in the slide. They can and will fall out of the back of the slide if the back is pointed down. I remove them and clean them anyway but it is a good idea to keep track of the parts so you know how to put them back together. One thing I have noted on my particular pistol is that my pistol does not have a firing pin sping cup. My firing pin assembly has the firing pin, a firing pin spring, and plastic collar that fits over the spring. My guess is that Hi-Point made a design change and did not include this in the drawing of their pistol.
The first time I took my pistol apart I took the left and right grips off. This is not needed if you just wish to clean the pistol barrel from the breech end. The grips hold a number of levers in place and removing them could get you into trouble unless you carefully note where all the levers and springs are.
A good rule of thumb when cleaning and lubricating anything is that if two surfaces have to rub against each other or pivot around something that area should be lubricated. I put a drop of oil on all such points as well as on the end of each spring that I could easily get to. You will need to wipe off any excess oil after you are sure the oil has coated the parts you wish to have lubricated. You can install the magazine into the pistol with the slide removed and note how the trigger action works.
As an aside, I read an article that clained Hi-Points only use a crude safty that locks the slide assembly. Once the slide is off you can see that the statement is either a lie or the result of ignorance on the part of the politician who stated it. The safty does lock the slide but it also keeps the sear assembly from dropping. The sear assembly is also prevented from dropping when the magazine is more than halfway out of the pistol frame. The sear assembly drops to release the firing pin. No drop, no firing pin release, no bang.
Follow your gun cleaning kits advice when cleaning the barrel and various parts of the weapon that accumlate burnt powder and lead. Cleaning the barrel is very easy with the breech in clear view. I also clean the magazine and apply a light coat of oil to its parts. A dirty magazine will cause feed problems.
There are a couple of places where grease should be used instead of gun oil. The slide is not made of steel. It is some kind of alloy, probably mostly aluminum. Aluminum is a softer metal than steel and it will start to wear away if you do not lubricate it properly. One of the places you need to grease is the part of the slide that has the grove that the slide retainer fits through. The slide retainer is a steel part and it will wear into the grove if the grove is not lubricated with a good grease. I am currently using a synthetic brake caliper grease but I imagine any hi pressure grease would work. I will probably try and locate a lithium or molydeum grease for this purpose. A note of caution. The area of the slide which holds the firing ping and its spring and collar should NOT be greased. This area should be lubricated with gun oil. The way I did this was I oiled the firing ping, spring, and collar and then put the slide retainer into the grove. I used the slide retainer to push the firing pin, spring and collar into place then I removed the slide retainer and put a very light coat of grease on the ball part of it. I did this right before reassmbling the slide back onto the frame. After the slide was on the frame I applied more grease to the part of the grove that is exposed when the slide is locked in the rear position.
The other place to apply grease to are two small metal plates embedded in the plastic of the frame. These plates contact the slide as it goes forward and backward. They are located in the front of the frame under the barrel. The following are pictures of them on the right and left. They can be easily seen with the slide locked in the back position.
The hard part about installing the slide is getting the hole in the slide retainer to line up with the hole in the frame that the slide retainer pin goes through. The first time I tried this it took about 6 tries before I got lucky and got it lined up. The first time I did NOT put a light coating of grease on the ball part of the slide retainer. I only had gun oil on it. This made the slide retainer hard to control. A light coat of grease on the ball part of the slide retainer will stop the slide retainer from twisting as you ease it down into the hole in the frame that it normally resides in. Once the slide retainer along with the slide is in place you will need to gently tap the slide retainer pin back into place. Remember to put the tab part of the breech safty plug between the safty lever and the notch in the slide. Once the pin is started you can use the punch to center it in the frame so that the same amount of space is showing on both sides of the frame.
I hope what I have said and the pictures I have show are helpfull. If you wish to comment on this information please seen me an email. My email address is: firstname.lastname@example.org .click on the word back to go back to The Neutral Zone back