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Hellwig Silk Dyeing Plant at Wissinoming along the
Delaware |
It was in 1876 that the Hellwig Silk
Dyeing Company was founded, with Fred. Erler and Albert Hellwig forming a partnership as
Erler & Hellwig, for the dyeing of silk, at Eutaw and Race Streets, Philadelphia.
Albert Hellwig, born 1849 in Germany,
was early apprenticed to the silk dyeing industry in his native country, emigrated to
America in 1869, locating in Philadelphia, where later he established himself with Mr.
Erler. The latter, a native of Switzerland, had learned his trade in Basel and before
entering the partnership was foreman in the Silk Dyeing Department of the Quaker City Dye
Works.
Upon the death of Mr. Erler in 1882, August Spiers was admitted to partnership under the
firm name of Hellwig & Spiers.
In 1884 August Schaeffer, an experienced
silk dyer from Basel, Switzerland, became associated with Mr. Hellwig under the firm
name of Albert Hellwig & Co.
The potential growth of the Company had now
prompted the removal to larger quarters at Ninth and Buttonwood Streets, where the main
office is still located.
With the retirement of Mr. August Schaeffer
in 1903, the firm was incorporated in the state of Pennsylvania as The Hellwig Silk Dyeing Company, with Albert
Hellwig as President, Wm. J. Gutekunst as Treasurer, and Philip Henry Hellwig, son of
Albert Hellwig, as Secretary.
In 1905 Jacob Knup, who had been with The
Weidmann Silk Dyeing Co., of Paterson, N. J., for seventeen years, bought an interest and
took up the management of the Company.
Mr. Knup is a native of Switzerland. After
receiving a thorough and practical training in his father's dyehouse, he took up the study
of chemistry at the Technicum, Winterthur, Switzerland, graduating with honors. To
further his knowledge and experience in the dyeing of silk, he associated himself with
Bodmer in Zurich, where he assisted Prof. Hans Wolf of the Technicum, Winterthur, in the
exploitation of the new process, patented by Prof. Wolf, for weighting silk with
Tetrachloride of Tin in combination with Tungstate of Soda. After many successful trials,
he was engaged by Prof. Wolf in the Fall of 1887 to introduce his weighting process in
America, being connected with the firm of George Marlot of Paterson, N. J.
Severing his connection with the firm of George Marlot after a short stay, Mr. Knup was
engaged by The Weidmann Silk Dyeing Co., who at that time became interested in tin
weighting of silk, to direct that department. Here he also introduced the manufacture of
Tetrachloride of Tin for the weighting process. Having charge of these departments for
over ten years, he later took
over the management of the Black Department until 1903.
For a short period he assumed the
management of The Standard Silk Dyeing Co., and in 1905 started his career with The
Hellwig Silk Dyeing Co. In 1907, Albert Hellwig sold the controlling- interest of the
Company to Jacob Knup, retaining however a financial interest and directorship in the
Company.
Wm. J. Gutekunst came to Hellwig & Co.
in 1883 as a young man. He served his apprenticeship as a dyer, but after a few years
manifested a desire to solicit the trade. With the extension of the dyehouse, the service
to be rendered and contact with the trade became more important. Mr. Gutekunst's ability
in this direction, combined with his pleasant personality, through which he made a great
number of friends in the silk trade, contributed largely to the success of the firm.
In 1910, Henry Hellwig, son of the founder,
retired and was succeeded some years later by Jacob Knup, Jr., as Secretary. Mr. Knup, Jr., like his father, is also a graduate
of Technicum, Winterthur) in chemistry and dyeing.
These officers have directed the affairs of
The Hell wig Silk Dyeing Co. and under their management, the firm has developed a
reputation in weighted skein dyeing and all branches of dyeing silk in skeins.
As the business increased, the location of
the dye house in the center of the city precluded larger extensions on account of property
cost and uncertain water supply. To augment their plant, a ten-acre plot of ground was
purchased in Wissinoming, a suburb of Philadelphia, on the Delaware River. In 1914 the
Wissinoming Branch was erected, having a Pennsylvania R. R, siding and a splendid water
supply from the Delaware River (with a special filtration plant in conjunction), assuring
a full volume of water of unexcelled quality for dyeing purposes. To promote greater
efficiency in the-new plant; every detail was considered so that goods should continually
move forward in the course of completion.
Realizing, however, that efficiency with
capacity is but a secondary consideration, and that quality is withal the prime motive
in the silk industry, the management sought the advice of leading engineers in procuring
the best type of machinery that would improve the quality of their output, and to discard
the old hand method of uncertain results.
The continued progress of The Hellwig Silk Dyeing Co. seems
assured, as the younger generation is being carefully schooled in the intricacies of
the trade in general and each one assuming a specialized branch. Jacob Knup, Jr., in
charge of the Wissinoming Branch, and Alfred Knup, directing the Weighting Department,
are both graduates of their father's alma mater, the Technicum, Winterthur, Switzerland.
Frank J. Gutekunst, in charge of Color Department, Herbert C. Gutekunst, Executive in
Main Office, and Ralph M. Gutekunst, were trained in the Philadelphia Textile School.
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The Laboratory |
When
the firm started in 1876, floss and spun silks were dyed for the upholstery and millinery
trade with aniline dyestuffs for colors; while red iron, gambier and logwood were used for
blacks. No fastness to light was required at that time, while for the same
articles-curtains and furniture covers-the trade now requires absolute fastness to light
and washing, using mostly mercerized cotton instead of spun silk, and artificial silk for
filling. Both of these fibers are now dyed with vat colors and guaranteed for fastness to
light and washing. The same general conditions also prevailed for the trimming mills who
used large quantities of tussah for chenille and straw imitations. Light shades and fairly
good whites were obtained in the olden days by bleaching with peroxide of hydrogen;
special machines were used for stretching to increase the luster.
In the early days
of the firm, organzine and tram brights were dyed, also pure dye and sugar weighted
souples for one of the oldest ribbon manufacturers - Werner Itchner - who located in Philadelphia about 1860 and imported
ribbon looms from Switzerland, which were among the first in operation in this country. |
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A Section of the Weighting Department |
In
many and varied channels did the silk industry aid the development of other trade bodies,
as is evidenced by the fact that the Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co., having received
quantity orders in the 80's for floss silk in a bright green shade for covering electric
wires, availed themselves of the Hellwig & Co. dyeing in this particular line.
Likewise of the organ and tram for their broad silk department.
It was with the
expansion of the Philadelphia broad silk and ribbon mills, Hellwig & Co., like the
dyehouses in Paterson, did considerable tannin weighted organzine and souples. The latter
was weighted up to twenty-six ounces by the process combining tannin materials and tartar
emetic, also glue. One of the most
interesting developments in the American silk industry was the determination of the John
B. Stetson Co. to manufacture
their own hat trimmings. Previously all men's hat trimmings were
imported, and mostly from Germany, but now these goods are all made in America. The
Hellwig Silk Dyeing Co. has assisted in this new industry to a considerable extent, and
today it has grown to a large volume of the highest grade of skein dyeing. |
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Skein Color Dyeing Machines |
Foreign
made velvets were now being imported in greater quantities. This market also offered a
splendid opportunity for the American manufacturers. However, the dyeing of silk in
skein was an important part in the success of this undertaking, and it was only with
considerable laboratory research work that this company was able to procure .the necessary
quality which would enable the velvet manufacturer to obtain the brilliancy and softness
of foreign made goods.
With the
introduction of artificial silk about 1898, the millinery mills of Philadelphia applied it
to the manufacture of novelties. The Chardonnet process (now termed Tubize) was
introduced first; then Cupra-Ammonia; later Visco, and recently Celanese. Hellwig &
Co., sensing the progress of the times, immediately planned a department for the dyeing of
this new product, installing the latest type of machines, and combined with the many
years of experience, have, developed a department of considerable magnitude for the
dyeing of Rayon.
The development
of Rayon in the past decade has been marvelous; and with it the dyeing industry has kept
closely apace in making it available for numerous additional uses in being fast to light
and washing.
A continual
progression of new ideas was now taking hold in the silk industry. It was in 1900 that The
Hellwig Silk Dyeing Co. installed the Weighting or Tinning Department to better serve the
broad silk and ribbon industry.
Shortly
thereafter one of the oldest full fashioned hosiery mills in the country, making ingrain
hose exclusively of pure dye tram, realizing the many advantages of the new weighting
process, introduced a new type of stocking weighted to 16 oz. with wonderful success,
selling to the most reputable houses in New York and Philadelphia for over 15 years
without ever a claim for tender goods |
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Sectional View of Skein Dryers |
Therein,
however, lies a much mooted question. Silk properly weighted undoubtedly makes a better
appearing hose than pure dye, the silk having superior luster and "hand"; and a
most excellent wearing quality. Whereas, should silk be over-weighted, it will impair the
wearing quality by reason of the contact of chemical properties in weighting and foot
perspiration. There was a gradual demand by the trade for over weighting of silk, which
naturally did not improve the wearing quality and with time caused a reversal to pure dyed
tram.
Weighting in
itself is an art, inasmuch as it requires special qualities for weighted silk to slide
through the needles in the knitting machines for a regular, smooth webbing. Fastness
of.color is also necessary. Further, the process of dyeing becomes more difficult. These
factors were readily overcome when The Hellwig Silk
Dyeing Co. procured the services of Mr. Jacob Knup in 1905 - now
President of the Company - who, as a pioneer
in this branch, with his knowledge of chemistry was able to cope with the demand so
successfully as to require the addition of the Wissinoming Branch.
Under the varying
conditions of today-may it be the economic or multiple of colors in fashion-dip-dyed
hose seems to serve the more popular favor. To meet this demand the firm has installed the
latest type of machinery.
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Piece Goods Color Department |
The
most recent innovation in the trade is the dyeing of silk goods in the piece. The Hellwig
Silk Dyeing Co., who have long been recognized as leaders' in skein dyeing and weighting
of all kinds of silk, are now specializing in this newly created department. Engaging a
corps of chemists who are continually analyzing and studying the potential possibilities
for the scientific development of this new industry, the firm has been making rapid
strides to the same high point of efficiency as justified their reputation in the past
for the dyeing and weighting of silk in skeins. |
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Department A of Piece Goods Finishing |
To
presage the future, would merely mean to conjure with the rapid strides of the silk
industry. However, it has been a long stride from 1876, when floss and spun silks dyed in
skein were the dominant parts of the dyeing industry, to 1926 when piece goods, dyed and
weighted, are done in immense yardage.
Statistics cannot
possibly give what a potent factor the silk industry has become in America. Years gone by
Europe supplied the greater majority of silk goods, whereas in the last fifty years
America has gone to the forefront, not only in the manufacture of silk goods, but in the
creation and development of new ideas and uses.
In 1926, The
Hellwig Silk Dyeing Company shall have completed fifty years of continued useful service
to the textile industry, when they will celebrate their Golden Anniversary. Their growth
may be attributed to an assiduous and close attention to the trades demands, and to their
continual study of the latest innovations, moving onward and upward with the trend of
time. |
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Department B of Piece Goods Finishing |
The history, above, was taken from a pamphlet published by the Hellwig Silk Dyeing Co.
on the occasion of their Golden Anniversary in 1926.
A first person account of work at Helwig's is given by George
Powell.
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