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The Oregonian, Portland, OR., July 11, 1926, section 7, page 4
Includes photographs

WISHRAM INDIAN COUNTRY FILLED WITH LURES FOR MOTORIST
INDIAN CLIFF TRIP PLEASANT JOURNEY
Route To Wishram, Wash., One Of Great Beauty
WRITINGS HOLD INTEREST
Relics Of Early Tribe Unearthed And Aged Woman Relates Bridge Legend
By. M. Leone Nichols

The west is filled with wonders on such a magnificent scale that they furnish thrills sufficient to send the blood pulsing through the veins of the most phlegmatic person.
To see this country spread out like a huge bas-relief, hundreds of miles in length, with majestic, snow crowned peaks of some five or six mountains, is possible by driving from Portland, Or., via Vancouver, Wash., over the Evergreen highway to the little town of Wishram, on the Washington side of the Columbia.
The object of the trip was to visit the historic Indian village of Wishram and to investigate the Indian writings on the cliffs, along the Columbia river.
The highway, as far as Lyle, follows the river rather closely, threading its way among the canyons of the Washougal and its tributaries, until it reaches the Columbia - that mighty river, so potential with power and so majestic, as it flows beneath its rock rimmed gorges. The fir trees along its banks reflect their stately heights on the face of the stream, that drains water from three or four states, on its way to the ocean.

Industries Are Varied

The industries that line its banks are varied, they are farming and fishing as well as electric power plants, saw mills and salmon canneries.
The country changes in character from the soft climate of the lower Columbia to the lighter, dryer air of the upper river. The luxuriant shrubbery of the lower country, with its thickly timbered hills of tall firs and brilliantly-colored vine maples, changes to the bull pine and scrub oak of the higher altitudes.
Before leaving the White Salmon country we came upon a clearing on the crest of a bluff. Hood river valley, dotted with orchards and fields of small fruits, opened out like a scroll. In the distance was Mount Hood, standing guard - a never sleeping sentinel, impressive with its crown of perpetual snow. The Columbia river in its gorge, hundreds of feet below, looked so narrow that it appeared to be but a ribbon of quicksilver scintillating in the afternoon sunshine, while to the east lay the brown hills of the upper Columbia. Gulls soared, wheeled and dipped on the river, chipmunks chattered and ran perilously nearer, as if inviting a chase from the Llewellyn setter pup, who chafed and tugged at his leash. A pheasant sailed by with wings spread and tail feathers trailing like the rudder of an airplane.
Such scenic beauty is unsurpassed whether it be in Europe or America. The Evergreen highway is in course of construction and in some places the progress of the tourist is necessarily slow.

Bingen Rivals Namesake

On the bluffs above the town of Bingen, named after that ancient city on the Rhine, lies the White Salmon fruit country, a close rival in its productiveness to the Hood river valley.
Along the road little fruit stands have been erected, where excellent quality of fruit may be purchased. Farmers hang out advertising boards, telling the traveler that they have pigs or perhaps a fresh milk cow for sale. At other places signs tell of fresh eggs, broilers or other farm commodities.
With the whole citizenry of the country gone a-gypsying it might be no longer necessary for the diversified farmer to go to market with is produce. Instead the world comes to his door and gladly carries the produce away - and why not? With the freshness of the vegetables coupled to their reasonableness in price why should not the city dweller buy his table supplies in this natural manner?
As the farming region is left behind, the tourist is sharply reminded that he is in the land of the sheepman. Along the lower strand of the miles of barb wire fences there are bits of wool flapping in the breeze, like lengthy lines of family washing hung out to dry. The Indians squaws gather this wool and sell it. On the market is known as "squaw wool."

Highway Leaves River

At Lyle the highway leaves the river and worms its way in and out like a weaver's shuttle, through the rolling Klickitat hills.
While the town of Wishram is but nine miles distant from Lyle, by railroad, in a machine a much longer distance must be traveled, as there is no water grade highway.
At places along the road the grade is so narrow that two cars cannot pass and the tourist sits rather lightly, wondering what would happen if a fellow-traveler was met on such short curves.
There are two roads to Wishram. One branches off the main highway at Warwick and is but five miles in length. The longer route is via Maryhill. This shorter road is scarcely more than a slightly widened sheep trail, with curves so sharp that it makes a hairpin seem straight by comparison. The grades are almost perpendicular and the traveler is harassed by worries as to whether his last life insurance premium has been paid or if his will might or might not be contested in the event that the brakes should not hold or the car should take a sudden notion to catapult into the rocky gulches so far below.

Stock Ranches Passed

The traveler passes lonely stock ranches, in sheltered valleys surrounded by miles of land suitable only for grazing. In the distance hills tower into miniature mountains and then slope again into inoffensive little valleys, while now and then a glimpse of the Columbia is caught.
At last the town of Wishram, surrounded by its solemn poplar trees, is sighted. It is rather a progressive little place, with the city water and an inviting grassy park that fronts along the railroad.
The Columbia Indians painted strange symbols upon the basalt cliffs situated back of the town. These pictographs represent many subjects but no one seems to be able to interpret their meaning. Among the subjects depicted are a herd of goats, symbols resembling somewhat the signs of the zodiac, Indian figures wearing large hats and drawings of the evil one. These paintings have withstood the storms of centuries. There are no living Indians known who can tell how long these pictographs were painted, neither do they know the substance used.
Among the Wishram Indians is a woman, more than 100 years old. She is the daughter of a chieftain and remembers when Dr. John McLoughlin came to her village to make a treaty with her father.
Dr. McLoughlin or White Eagle, as the Indians called him, founded the Hudson Bay Fur Trading Company at Fort Vancouver in 1825.

Squaw Recalls Legend

This venerable old squaw speaks no English and the conversation must be carried on through a third party. She relates many Indian legends, among them being one that would seem to substantiate the fact that there was once a bridge of the gods, spanning the Columbia.
The Wishram tribe held a sort of trading station at their village. Indians from the upper country brought skins to barter for the commodities offered by the tradesmen of the lower Columbia. The Wishrams were known to be sharp traders and drove keen bargains.
These piscatory Indians have a peculiar way of curing salmon. No salt was used in the process. After disemboweling the fish, it was cut in strips and hung on racks to dry. When the curing process was completed, it was pounded into a powder and wrapped in packages, covered with dried salmon skins. These were placed in cone-like mounds and again wrapped in moisture-proof coverings. This cured fish with keep for years and was used as a medium of exchange. No part of the fish was wasted, even the head was dried, ground into powder and used as a base for soup.
"Long narrows," as the Indians called Celilo falls, was and still is, a favorite fishing ground for these Indian fishermen. Long-handled spears and dip nets were used for catching the fish.

Salmon Season Joyous

The Indians considered the salmon season as their harvest time and made a great event of it, many tribes journeyed hundreds of miles in order to enjoy the sport. The Piute Indians of central Oregon and Nevada, often came to the Columbia river to fish. These desert tribesmen brought with them antelope, bear and deer skins, as well as a jerked venison to trade for the commodities of the piscatory tribes.
In spite of all this fishing festival, the Indians ever faced that grim monster, hunger, and labored to gain a supply of food for winter.
There are many Indian burial places in the gorge of the Columbia. Some of them were on islands, while others were on the rocky cliffs bordering the river.
These Columbia river Indians buried all of the belongings of their dead with them. It was believed that even in the "happy hunting ground," fish, water fowl and game of all kinds would be plentiful and that the departed one must be well-equipped for the pursuit of these pleasures.
The high waters of later years have swept away many of the Indian relics from these memaloose islands. The "paleface" has also vandalized Indian burial places. Yet among the cliffs are huge grave-yards still untouched by the hands of the souvenir collector.

Indian Graves Found

Recently two Indian graves were discovered, while excavations were being made for a water ditch, at Wishram. These were evidently those of a brave and his squaw. In the woman's grave was found a rush basket, beautifully woven in an intricate design. This basket, however, crumbled as soon as the air reached it. Buried with the brave were his war clubs of various sizes, a skinning knife of obsidian, mortars of various sizes and pestles. There were also idols of stone resembling squirrels or prairie dogs. Another peculiar relic was a bit of deer horn five or six inches in length, not unlike the modern cigar holder in shape and size. It was beautifully carved in Indian symbols.
At other places along the river Indian relics have been found. A short time ago, a relic resembling a doll, was unearthed. It was made it from a sort of clay and had been burned or baked. The face of the figure was oriental, with almond-save shaped eyes and cheek bones not prominent as are those of the Indian. The lips were thin and well-shaped, at one time it must have had arms and legs as there were still projections showing where they would have been. An old Indian woman, living near the place where the idol was found, remembered having seen similar figures on Indian graves. They were supposed to possess the virtue of keeping away the evil spirits.
The country adjacent to the Columbia river is rich in the Indian lore and relics. Without a doubt, much time might be profitably spent in making excavations as well as studying the writings on the cliffs along the river.
At the historic town of Wishram, a monument is soon to be unveiled in honor of the early pioneers. The main shaft is composed of basalt that was quarried from nearby cliffs. Upon it will be a bronze tablet, bearing the names of those trail blazers, who made the way easy for those who followed.