The Goldendale Sentinel, Goldendale, WA., November 20, 1930, page 7
EARLY DAYS IN THE PLEASANT VALLEY SECTION
By W. Cowles
Owing to a number of requests that the history of the
first settlement of Pleasant Valley be written and as I am the last old timer
remaining in the valley, I will try and write it as I remember it.
Now this matter is open to anyone who may see fit to
correct anything that is contained herein. Fifty-two years is quite a long
time to remember all the details as to who arrived first and etc., so please
come forward and correct anything you may think is wrong.
The first permanent settles arrived in the valley on
the ninth day of March, eighteen hundred and seventy-six, nearly fifty-three
years ago. The writer and his father, mother and one sister left the young
city of Goldendale on that morning and occupied nearly the whole of that
day getting over the road or trail arriving at our destination well toward
sundown.
We had a so-called road as far as a No. Six, and from
there we hunted the best way we could get through. We passed near the Ralph
Fenton place and the George Saxton place, then claimed by one Jared West,
who had a small claim shanty there. That was as far as any wheeled vehicle
had been.
From there we had rather hard going, but we had our rather
limited supply of household goods behind a good pair of mules who stopped
for neither hills or hollows. From the north end of Luna Butte we could see
view the, to us, land of promise, and it was sure beautiful -- miles of waving
bunch grass spotted with the early flowers were in full sight, and we almost
felt like monarchs of all we surveyed.
We had paid the valley a visit the fall before and knew
where we wished to locate until we had determined on the location of our
homesteads. Here we lived in a tent for a short time when I finally located
on the spot and built a small cabin of hewed logs and lumber, hauling the
necessary lumber from Whitney's Mill beyond the Blockhouse - this being the
first real building to be erected in Pleasant Valley. In the meantime father
had located on the northwest quarter of Section 20 while I stayed with my
first location.
Now right here I want to say that we found later that
we had located on about the poorest pieces of land in the valley, looking
at it from a farming view, and we afterwards were asked frequently why we
did it. The answer was and still is, that we cared very little for any farming
land; that we were expecting to keep stock and all we wanted at that time
was plenty of living water, and a little garden patch. Afterwards we saw
our mistake, but it was too late then.
We were of the opinion that we would have all of the
valley for a pasture for at least five years, thinking that the rich country
around Centerville and the Swale region would all be settled before anyone
would look at this part of the country, but before the summer ended we learned
different.
In June of that year the second house was built by Jas.
Montgomery closely followed by one by Wm. "Uncle Billy" Martin, who then
returned to the Willamette valley for their families. On returning they were
accompanied by Wm. E. "Uncle Ellis" Beeks and family, who also located near
by.
In the meantime, Wm. Radcliff, the father of the Radcliff
boys here, settled on what was then called Sand Ridge, but is now included
as part of Pleasant Valley. That same season Charley Newell settled further
east on the same ridge.
The winter of seventy six and seven saw the arrival of
Uncle Jake and Uncle Sam Beeks, closely followed by Uncle John Stump, together
with his family, who settled on the school section, which is now a part of
the Ganguin holdings, while a Wm. Stump settled on what is now the John Thomson
place.
Right after the Stumps came Phillip Collery, and the
two sons of Uncle Jake Beeks built, one on the now Ira Trumbo place, and
the other on what is known as the Clyde Davenport place, at present occupied
by Harold Dingmon.
G.H. Griggs had settled on Section 19 but sold out to
A.M. Wiley, who arrived about that time. He followed by John Anderson, now
living in Goldendale. S.H. Smith homesteaded a part of Section 18 and just
a short time before his death sold it to John Anderson.
Some time in the seventy-seven, there began a call for
a school. A selection was made and a log building was erected on the spot
where the writers house now stands. The first teacher was a Mrs. Kinley,
who lived on the now Gardner place east of town. She drew the enormous salary
of twenty-five dollars a month, but she "boarded around." This school house
was soon afterwards removed to the place where it is now located. It was
replaced by a larger frame building later, which was in turn replaced by
the present one.
The place formerly occupied by John Ray, was first settled
by one the Jas. Smith, who abandoned it at the time of the Indian scare here
in '77. It passed through the hands of several others, one of which was Mike
Leonard, who will be remembered by many old timers; another one was Jeff
Smith, who may be seen around the Court House with a rake and a lawn mower.
During the Indians scare we built a fort at what is locally
called the Joe Beeks spring, being at that time the residence of Uncle Sam
Beeks. It was never finished on the plans of first made, but it would have
stood off all of the Indians that was likely to be brought against it. Some
of the women were taken to Goldendale, but all the people that remained stayed
nights in the said fort. There was quite a lot of excitement about that time,
and a whole lot could be written about it, but it would take up too much
time and room, so we will pass it by.
The first white child born here was Frank Radcliff, who
now lives in the locally called Philippines.
The first death was that of a young daughter of Dr. Hewitt,
who had located near the western part of the valley. It was closely followed
by another little daughter, who was laid at the side of her sister, these
being the first graves made in the present cemetery. This was during the
dyptheria epidemic of that time, quite a number of deaths occurring from
that cause.
The first wedding was that of a double wedding, Nelson
La Course and Miss Emma Beeks, and James Beeks and Miss Molly Hearn. With
the exception of Mrs. Jas. Beeks they are all claimed by death. A few weeks
later the writer was married to Miss Mary Beeks. For some time after, each
marriage near here had one of the contracting parties by the name of Beeks,
so much so that the then auditor remarked that the county should make a reduction
of the price of the license to the Beeks. At one time there were so many
of that name here that it was called the Beeks reservation.
This is as near as I can remember of the settlers of
that time up to the spring of eighteen eighty. A.M. Wylie, and John Anderson
and myself are the only ones remaining of the old settlers of that time,
John Anderson and Goldendale, Mr. Wylie in Walla Walla, while I am still
here. The rest are all gone. There was quite a number of the neighbors at
my wedding, which was on of the twelfth of May, eighteen seventy eight. Some
of them were quite young, some infants in arms, but of all that gathering
I am the only one left.
The following names are those who were the first permanent
settlers in the valley: J. Cowles, W. Cowles, Wm. Martin, Ellis Beeks, Jacob
Beeks, Samuel Beeks, Wm. Radcliff, Charley Newell, John Stump and his two
sons, Wm. and Oliver, A.M. Wylie, S.H. Smith, and John Anderson.
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© Jeffrey L. Elmer