The Goldendale Sentinel, Goldendale, WA., July 16, 1959, page 1
Society Meets at White Salmon
45 NEW NAMES ADDED TO HISTORICAL GROUP CHARTER
Forty-five new names were added to the charter of the
Klickitat County Historical Society Saturday. The quarterly meeting was held
at Mt. View Grange hall in White Salmon, with the Grange ladies serving a
bounteous luncheon at noon.
The committees met in the morning at 10:30, with the
general meeting getting under way after luncheon; over 75 persons attended
the main session, with President Al Matsen wielding the gavel.
The charter will be kept open until after the fall quarterly
session in Goldendale on the second Saturday of October, it was decided.
Mrs. G. F. Roberts of Klickitat reported that the trail
markers sponsored by the society for scenic and historic points in the county
are ready for lettering.
Informal discussion followed on the founding of a county
historical museum, but no definite action was taken on selection of a site.
The program consisted of old-fashioned fiddling by William
Wright, accompanied by Mrs. Clyde Story and Walter Story of Goldendale, and
a paper called "The Land of Betwixt and Between" by Dr. H. L. Moon of White
Salmon. The text of this light-vein reading is appended to this article.
A talk on the life of Uncle John Wyers in the old days
in the White Salmon area was given by William Worthman. He showed colored
slides of the rugged country the pioneers traveled on the Lewis and Clerk
trail on the way to Washington.
THE BEAUTIFUL LAND OF "BETWIXT AND BETWEEN"
Early Day Transportation in Bingen, White Salmon and Mt. Adams County
A paper presented before the Klickitat County Chapter of the Washington
Historical Society,
7-11-59, by Dr. H.L. Moon.
Mr. President, ladies and gentlemen of the Klickitat
County Historical Society and visitors.
As an 18-years-old Johnny come lately resident of White
Salmon I apologize for the part I have in today's program.
I did not volunteer. The job was wished upon me.
Will not even go back to the time of your earliest settlers
or even those first born here.
We leave that history for a later date and to those more
capable of presenting them before the Society.
Before we delve deeply into early local history, perhaps
a background building up to it may be in order.
For really early history lets go back in time. Back to
the time of the Great Inland Sea. Back to the time when the "Little Eohippres"
decided he just must become a horse.
The Cascade Mt. Range was a barrier between the Pacific
Ocean and the Great Inland Sea.
Accumulating run off waters found a weak spot in the
Mt. Range, cut through the Columbia Gorge country from, say the present Dalles
Dam on the east to Bonneville Dam on the West.
That left the Hood River Valley; the Bingen-White Salmon
area just midway between the two dams.
Also this area is about midway between Mt. Adams and
Mt. Hood. This then is the beautiful land of "Betwixt and Between,"
Roamed the River
It is between the two dams. Sort of betwixt the two
mountains. Really between a wet coastal range and a dry sage brush desert
interior. It is the beautiful mid-mountain section of the Columbia gorge
country. I first discovered it in 1911. I rediscovered it in 1940 with my
family. In 1942 became a cliff dweller on the Columbia. In World War II,
like the early Indians, roamed from Vancouver to Spokane as a medicine man.
Left the war path of both World War I and II as a cross
red man or better a Red Cross man, content in my White Salmon wigwam. Please
pardon the digression but adds to back-ground and shows that new comers as
well as old timers love the gorge country.
With the background in place let's get on with our local
history.
There are three main ways of travel -- water, land and
air.
Water here was the original way. In water; by log, (have
seen it happen on the Columbia). By log raft; by canoe; by boat; row, sail,
gas or steam. We have had them all on the Co1umbia.
Add now the bateau of the Hudson Bay Co.; the scow early
and late types of Schafer Barge & Tow and Inland Navigation Company.
Is that all for our river road? Nay, most emphatically
no.
In our century of progress the wheel has made full turn
and we are back to boats again. This time not man or sail or horse power,
but plenty of gas power and green horns that are a menace to navigation.
So much for the river road. Let's go talk to an old timer
regarding early river history.
Ira Rowland, born at Lyle in 1873 is 86 years young.
He is as of today Klickitat county's oldest living son. Ira solemnly states
his present wife was is a Nebraska girl named Vida Shiell, inferring possibly
a fairly recent marriage.
After that sort of settle, he further states, they celebrated
their golden wedding anniversary December 12, l949. That means they try for
the 60th in '59.
Ira works his own little vineyard, large garden, hikes
to town for mail and groceries and is still a handy man about the house.
Ira states "the town of White Salmon site was sold to
Charles Conver, a squaw man, for $50 and a sack of flour." If so, we are
twice as good as Manhattan Island that went on sale for $24. "There must
be a slight error somewhere in my statement."
Rattles off Names
On river transportation Mr. Rowland has seen a lot of
it. From memory to my question on steam boats on the river, he rattled off
names much faster than I could get them on my notes. Here is his list to
me: Albina, R.R. Thompson, Idaho, Hassela, Mt. Queen, Harvest Queen, Dalles
City, Regulator, New Regulator, D.S. Baker, Charles Spencer, Tahoma, Medlico,
Schafer, Undine, Geo. W. Schafer and the Bailey Gatzert and Georgia Burton.
The Bailey Gatzert I had first seen on Puget Sound, saw
it later on the Columbia and watched Georgia Burton make its last trip up
to The Dalles.
Ira remembers, as a barefoot boy, that two steamers one
Sunday afternoon passed upstream with flags half mast. They anchored at Memaloose
Island, the "Island of the Dead," an Indian burial ground. They unloaded
a casket. In it was the body of Captain Travett, an old time Columbia River
boatman. His request was to be buried among his old Indian friends. The Indians
being more honest than his white friends.
The steamers, Hasselo and Mt. Queen carted the large
funeral party from Portland to the island.
My history reference later changes the story somewhat
but I vote for Ira's version.
Ira and J.W. Taylor bought and ran the ferry between
White Salmon and Hood River. Said ferry consisting of a 30x10 ft. scow towed
by a rowboat. That was a job. They bought the ferry in 1901. No phone, so
they ran on flag call. Fare 35c. They later sold out to O.C. Dean, who, later
sold out to the bridge company.
Ira's history needs reporting further at a later date,
along with our other pioneers. It is worthwhile and of interest.
Time is short. The bridge built a new highway that entered
White, Sa1mon and lead us to wonder just why and where other roads lead into
and out of town. To do that is to find out who delivered the mail in the
early days. That was easy, for the same man has the same star route today
that he started in 1894.
This man was born April 15, 1876 in Holland. Family migrated
first to Kansas. The boy, Teunis Wyers, was 13 years old when he arrived
in White Salmon. Arriving here in 1889 he says he went to work. At 1959,
a small matter of 70 years, finds him still at his desk six days a week.
Started on Horseback
Starting his star route in 1894, he started the mail
route first on horseback, then added horses and Wagons (sleds in the winter)
until he was using probably 65 horses in harness daily on his mail, stage,
and freight line.
Along with above, he became, I believe, an early Standard
Oil man, hauling kerosene, axle grease and harness oil by wagon.
In the early 1920's he retired teams, but increased horse
power by gas trucks. Now all equipment runs on gas, rubber and good roads.
In early days it was sort of a pony express, deep mud,
switch teams, wear out animals and buy new ones.
Teunis tells about his wild horse buying trip from Yakima
to Burns. He bought to replace for his own use; also picked and broke matched
pairs for the Portland carriage trade.
Teun, like, Ira, needs a complete biography later. If
drawn out has a lot to tell. Now on limited time, must squeeze a long busy
life into a small amount of time and space.
Mail came to Hood River by O.R.&N.R.R. and navigation
company. From there on ferry to White Salmon dock or landing. From White
Salmon to the back districts by three mail routes.
Teun carried the route nearest the White Salmon river,
North to Gilmer Flats, then to Fulda, Laurel and Glenwood, Troutlake and
Husum were added later.
Trails Become Roads
Gilmer was a stage stop and a horse change station. Roads
often started as game and Indian trails, widened to handle wagons and logs,
minus some curves are now our secondary highways.
Teun early accumulated much of the good earth on his
equipment. This accumulation calls for conservation by a thrifty man. Low
and behold the miracle of mud turns into Camas Prairie on one end of his
star mail route and the extra left over became Burdoin Mountain on this end
of his route.
Camas Prairie raised grass and hay. Burdoin Mountain
has browse, early grass and trees.
What to do? Raise cattle, of course. That accounts for
a cattle drive each spring through White Salmon.
Now trees ain't hay, but make nice long green, as lumber.
Cattle are not timber, but at 30c a pound on the hoof can compete with it.
A man who worked for Standard Oil usually has a stock
interest in the company. Teun, then primarily is a STOCKMAN -- stock in stage
company; in animals; land and logs; also in the bank; and with a touch from
lady luck and a head that used the brain, he has and knows more about diversified
stocks than many of our modern so-called stockbrokers.
To make a short story longer take this thought home with
you.
Our orchards are fruitful,
Our forests are green,
Our living delightful
In Betwixt and Between.
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© Jeffrey L. Elmer